When Petzl unveiled the Neox, skepticism was palpable. Many in the climbing community viewed it as yet another attempt to dethrone the Grigri, a beloved staple in belay devices. A reviewer humorously remarked, "Congratulations to Petzl for joining every other gear company in now knowing what it means to try but fail to make a belay device that’s better than the Grigri."
However, after putting the Neox to the test, the narrative shifted. "The Petzl Neox isn’t quite a Grigri killer, but it’s close. For what it does well—lead belaying single-pitch sport climbing—it’s my new go-to," the reviewer admitted, recognizing the new device's strengths while still valuing the familiarity of the Grigri.
What sets the Neox apart begins with its design. While it bears a resemblance to the Grigri, with only minor visual differences, the real innovation lies within its mechanics. The Neox boasts a spinning wheel that allows for exceptionally smooth rope feeding. "When sufficient force is applied, such as when the climber falls or hangs, the wheel stops spinning and then the Neox essentially transforms into a Grigri," explained the reviewer, highlighting the device's adaptability during critical moments.
Initially, there were doubts regarding the Neox's reliability in catching falls. "I wondered if the warnings on the Neox device and in the marketing materials, which advised against taking the brake hand off the rope, implied that the Neox might be somehow less reliable in this area compared to the Grigri," the reviewer recounted. Yet, after extensive testing, confidence grew. "I feel pretty confident in saying that the Neox is just as reliable at catching falls and holding hanging climbers as the Grigri," they concluded.
One of the Neox’s standout features is its remarkable ability to feed slack. "Subjectively, I would say that the Neox feeds slack roughly twice as effectively as the Grigri. It simply flows out of the device," the reviewer noted. This performance is particularly beneficial when belaying fast-paced climbers, such as professional athlete Joe Kinder. "Like many high-end climbers, he both climbs and clips really fast. This device is the one I’d want to use when belaying climbers like him," shared the reviewer, illustrating the Neox's tactical advantages.
Despite the appeal of the Neox, loyalty to the Grigri remains strong. "I kept the Neox in my pack, thinking I’d only break it out when climbing with people like Joe," the reviewer stated. However, the transition back to the Grigri was met with frustration. "Once you get used to how smooth the Neox’s feed is, going back to the Grigri kinda sucks. It’s like turning off the pedal assist on an electric bike," they remarked, illustrating the contrast in user experience.
In terms of performance for catching falls and lowering climbers, the Neox and Grigri are on equal footing. Nevertheless, there is a unique aspect of the Neox's mechanics during the process of winching up on the rope. "With the Neox, you’ll hear a click-click-click sound when you pull up on the brake side of the rope to take up slack. This clicking sound is simply the wheel spinning in the opposite direction," the reviewer pointed out, noting that this noise may initially concern some users. However, it’s simply a facet of its design and not indicative of any malfunction.
Belay technique is also a crucial aspect to consider. The Grigri can complicate the quick delivery of slack. To combat this, Petzl recommends that users keep the brake side of the rope in the crease of their brake hand while carefully managing the device's lever. This attention to technique is vital for ensuring safety and reliability during climbs.
As users explore the Neox, it becomes clear that this belay device does not seek to outright replace the Grigri; instead, it provides an alternative for specific climbing needs. For many, the Neox presents a compelling choice, especially for lead belaying due to its enhanced slack-feeding capabilities.