In a remarkable achievement for the climbing community, Italian climbers Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have successfully established the first climbing route on the pristine east face of Mount Phandambiri, also referred to as Mount Panda, in Mozambique. The duo completed their ascent of 'O caminho dos cogumelos' on Wednesday, August 6, 2025, a momentous date for both climbers and the region's mountaineering potential.
'O caminho dos cogumelos,' which translates to 'The Path of Mushrooms,' is a striking route that climbs nearly 900 meters of black granite, offering a challenging experience graded at 7a. The climb comprises 19 pitches, along with an additional 100 meters of scrambling to reach the summit, showcasing Grasso and Mazzolini's commitment to groundbreaking exploration in this remote location.
"The excitement of climbing an untouched face is always immense," Mazzolini expressed, reflecting on their unique experience. He further articulated the emotional depth of their adventure, stating, "When you're on the other side of the world, in a vast expanse like the African savanna, immersed in a different culture, it’s hard to put into words what you feel."
The route was established over six days, and the climbers opted to bolt the line due to the compact nature of the rock and the absence of cracks suitable for traditional protection methods. They placed 70 bolts, excluding belay stations, in what Grasso described as a meticulous approach to tackling the unknown wall. "What we established is a beautiful route on magnificent rock, one that will surely be a pleasure to repeat," he noted.
Grasso and Mazzolini are part of a larger expedition known as Verso il Phandambiri, which includes teammates Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomini, Maurizio Giordani, Anna Mazzolini, and Nancy Paoletto. This expedition aims not only to facilitate the first ascent of Phandambiri, but also to contribute to sustainable development within local communities. They are supported by the Italian Alpine Club and the Italian Academic Alpine Club in these efforts.
As part of their commitment, the team has established essential collaborations with local officials, tribal leaders, and reserve managers, focusing on enhancing sanitary conditions in surrounding villages and promoting environmental and cultural awareness. Grasso emphasized the dual goals of their endeavor, expressing a sense of responsibility towards the region.
Excitement runs high among the entire team as they reflect on their historic climb. The significance of establishing 'O caminho dos cogumelos' extends beyond personal achievement; it marks a pivotal point for the region's climbing landscape. Phandambiri, with its majestic granite walls and favorable climate, has the potential to evolve into a premier climbing destination, attracting adventurers from across the globe.
"Phandambiri has all the makings of becoming a famous climbing destination thanks to the grandeur of the mountain and the beauty of its granite," stated Mazzolini, highlighting the area’s strengths. As climbing logistics become clearer and more accessible, the future looks promising for both climbers and the local community.
Additionally, the location's lengthy days during winter months, with darkness typically falling around 5:30 PM, poses challenges for climbers, emphasizing the demanding nature of such a vertical journey.
Overall, 'O caminho dos cogumelos' not only represents a landmark accomplishment for Grasso and Mazzolini but also opens doors for further exploration and appreciation of Mozambique's hidden climbing potential. This expedition may well be the catalyst for a burgeoning climbing scene on Mt. Phandambiri, inviting climbers to experience the majestic allure of this previously untouched granite monolith.