In a remarkable achievement in the world of alpinism, French climbers Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean have successfully completed the first ascent of Jannu East, a prominent mountain standing at 7,468 meters in Nepal. This historic ascent was completed in alpine style over four challenging days, culminating in their summit on October 15, 2025.
Known for its daunting reputation, Jannu East has long been considered one of the last great untried summits of the Himalaya, attracting numerous attempts over the past three decades. Védrines described the experience as "the climb of a lifetime: three days of absolute intensity, between lucidity and sheer exhaustion. You had to push deep into commitment while keeping full control."
The duo's journey to this feat began over two months ago when they traveled to Nepal, where they initially acclimatized and even successfully summited the stunning Anidesh Chuli (6808m) in late September. Their focus, however, remained on the elusive Jannu East, which they had attempted to scale in 2024 alongside climbing partner Léo Billon.
Facing a mix of strong winds, freezing temperatures, and uncertainty after their Anidesh Chuli ascent, Védrines and Jean found a brief weather window and began their climb to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) on October 12, 2025. Departing from Base Camp at 12:20 p.m., they arrived at ABC at 3:45 p.m. after a taxing journey through fresh snow that made glacier crossings laborious. "We were sweating one moment and freezing the next. Looking up at the face… it was overwhelming — immense and intimidating," reflected Jean on their ascent.
Their climbing push commenced the following day, October 13, at 5:30 a.m. Védrines and Jean adopted a strategy of often simul-climbing due to sparse protection, taking turns leading different sections of the ascent. At around 4 p.m., they reached their first bivouac at 6,200 meters. "The packs were heavy, the snow hard, it was freezing, our calves were burning… but I was happy to be there," said Védrines, emphasizing their excitement despite the exhaustion. "Coming back here, a year later — it felt special. We’re crazy, but passionate. We wanted to finish this story."
On the morning of October 14, the second day of their ascent, they faced the emotional weight of past endeavors. The route had previously seen their companion Billon forced to turn back, while American climber Mike Gardner had tragically lost his life on the same face. "Passing where Léo had to stop and where Mike fell… it gives another dimension to what we were doing. We carried all of that in our minds," Jean explained. Undeterred by these memories, they continued into previously uncharted territory, supported by clear weather and calm conditions.
The climbing became progressively steeper, with increasing exposure as they approached 6,900 meters, where they set up their second bivouac by 3:30 p.m. "When we reached the bivy, we didn’t even want to look up. The wall above seemed endless. We decided to fix a section before stopping. It went through — that gave us hope," Jean remembered of that critical point in their ascent.
After enduring a bitterly cold night at their high-altitude camp, Gédrines and Jean climbed toward the summit with determination and focus. Their successful arrival at the summit of Jannu East not only celebrates their physical prowess but also marks a significant milestone in the mountaineering history of the Himalayas.
With this significant ascent completed, the future of climbing in such challenging terrains remains bright, as climbers around the world are inspired by Védrines and Jean's extraordinary feat, which showcases the perseverance and passion inherent in high-altitude climbing.