From August 5 to August 7, 2025, French climbers Leo Billon and Enzo Oddo achieved a landmark in climbing history by completing the first free ascent of the Lafaille route on the West Face of Petit Dru, a towering peak that rises 3,733 meters in the Mont Blanc massif.
Initially, the duo tackled the Lafaille route in a single day using aid climbing techniques, which involved relying on pitons for support. However, their aim was to return and scale the climb without assistance, marking a significant advancement in the ascent's difficulty. "It was critical for us to redefine the boundaries of this climb," said Enzo Oddo, a seasoned climber from Nice. "We wanted to push ourselves and truly connect with the rock."
The climbers set up two bivouacs along the wall, skillfully taking turns leading some of the route's most challenging sections. They later descended via ten rappels to collect their gear, followed by a brief meal before making their way down to the base, which they reached around 8 PM. After spending the night on the mountain, they returned to the valley to reflect on their monumental achievement.
The Lafaille route was initially rated A5+ but has been free-climbed by Billon and Oddo at a challenging 8b+. This accomplishment not only highlights their skill but also underscores the technical difficulty of the West Face of Petit Dru, which is famous for its rigorous climbing requirements. "This is why we climb—it's about the challenge, the adventure, and the memories we create," stated Leo Billon, a member of the Chamonix’s Military High Mountain Group (GMHM).
The Lafaille route has a rich history, first established by French alpinist Jean-Christophe Lafaille during a solo winter ascent from February 12 to 21, 2001. Lafaille relied on aid climbing techniques rated up to A5+, marking the route as both challenging and revered within the climbing community.
While the Petit Dru was first conquered on August 29, 1879, by Jean-Esteve Charlet-Straton, Prosper Payot, and Frederic Folliguet, the West Face remains one of the most formidable big walls in the Alps today. Billon and Oddo’s successful free ascent exemplifies the advancements in climbing techniques and demonstrates their determination to conquer the most challenging routes in the world.
Prior to this ascent, the duo had already made headlines in June when they opened a new 700-meter route on the West Face of Aiguille du Plan. Returning to the Petit Dru represents both a continuation of their climbing journey and a tribute to those who have scaled the mountain before them. "Each climb is a reminder of the pioneering spirit of our predecessors," remarked Oddo. "We're just standing on the shoulders of giants."
The success of Billon and Oddo’s free ascent on the Lafaille route is being hailed as a significant milestone in the climbing community and sets a new standard for future climbers aiming to tackle this iconic route. Reflecting on their journey, Billon mentioned, "We hope that our ascent inspires others to explore their limits and discover the beauty and challenges of climbing."
As climbers around the world digest this news, the focus will shift toward the possibilities this ascent opens up for further explorations and climbs in one of the most challenging areas of the Alps. The legacy of the Lafaille Route will continue to inspire future generations of climbers embarking on their alpine adventures.