On October 20, 2025, a team composed of Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli and Beppe Vidoni, alongside Austrian climbers Lukas Waldner and Benjamin Zörer, achieved the long-awaited first ascent of Kimshung (6,781 meters) in Nepal. This peak, known as Tsangbu Ri, is situated in the stunning Langtang Valley and has posed a substantial challenge to climbers over the years, having seen several previous attempts, including one by Cazzanelli and Vidoni in 2024 that reached 6,500 meters on the northeast face.
The journey to this summit was not easy for the climbers. Cazzanelli and Vidoni had dedicated a significant portion of 2025 to training for what they hoped would be the virgin summit. Just prior to their departure to Nepal, they learned that Waldner and Zörer had similar aspirations for Kimshung. “We decided to join forces once we arrived in Nepal,” Cazzanelli elaborated on the initial strategy behind the partnership.
After undergoing an acclimatization period, the team set out from base camp on the 19th of October, establishing a bivouac at the base of the Kimshung Glacier at 5,450 meters. Rising early the next day, they began their ascent, tackling a challenging 1,300-meter route. "We aimed to surpass our previous highpoint," Cazzanelli said. The conditions proved to be remarkably favorable, allowing them to reach the summit at approximately 12:30 p.m. that day.
The new route, dubbed Destiny (60°, AI4, M5), represents a significant achievement for the climbers, especially for Cazzanelli. “Reaching the summit of Kimshung is a dream I’ve been nurturing for ten years now,” he expressed. “I can finally say that I feel the loop has been closed.” This was not merely a journey of skill but also of persistence and resilience.
The ascent marked Cazzanelli's fourth attempt on Kimshung. Reflecting on past attempts, he recalled, “Our first attempt in 2015 never even began as we had to assist others after a devastating earthquake. That was quite the humbling experience.” The challenges persisted; during their second attempt in 2016 with teammates Giampaolo Corona and Emrik Favre, high winds forced them to turn back at around 6,400 meters. Cazzanelli noted, “It sounds like we got fairly high, but now I realize that all the hardest part was still above us.”
His second attempt turned tragic when he faced a life-threatening incident: “While climbing unroped, I was struck by falling rocks. I was fortunate to grip my ice tools and hang on, but my arm was severely injured.” With Corona’s assistance, Cazzanelli was guided back down to base camp, enduring an arduous journey that required 18 rappels along the way before being airlifted to a hospital in Kathmandu for emergency surgery.
Following that near-fatal experience, recovering from Kimshung became a journey of self-reflection and healing. “Initially, I wanted nothing to do with this mountain,” he admitted. After taking an extended break, Cazzanelli returned to climbing with renewed vigor, successfully summiting K2 in 2022 while his friend Corona tackled Annapurna. The duo made another attempt on Kimshung in 2024 but were once again halted by strong winds.
“Each setback has only strengthened my resolve,” Cazzanelli shared, illustrating the emotional toll that this ambitious goal had taken on him over the years. “This mountain holds many memories — some beautiful, some difficult. It’s like a relationship that demanded my full commitment.”
Now, standing triumphantly atop Kimshung, the culmination of nearly a decade of effort, Cazzanelli and his teammates have solidified their names in the annals of mountaineering. Their successful ascent will undoubtedly inspire future climbers seeking to conquer the formidable peaks of the Himalayas.
The first ascent of Kimshung is not only a personal victory for Cazzanelli and his team but also a testament to the power of teamwork, perseverance, and the spirit of adventure that drives climbers toward their dreams.