Adam Ondra is often referred to as one of the best rock climbers globally, mastering everything from difficult sport climbs to remarkable feats like ascending the Dawn Wall on his very first attempt. With a career that includes pushing the limits of climbing, Ondra turned his attention to indoor bouldering, where he faced significant challenges. To help tackle these obstacles, he developed the La Sportiva Ondra Comp specifically for the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics.
"I really wanted a shoe that could cater to the unique demands of modern bouldering competitions, which often require climbing on sloped volumes and tiny footholds," Ondra mentioned during the shoe’s design process. Unlike many professional athletes who lend their names to products without being directly involved, Ondra took a hands-on approach, insisting on a design that met his specific needs.
Testing the La Sportiva Ondra Comp over a four-month period, it was used exclusively in various climbing settings, showcasing its versatility. The experience revealed that while it excels indoors, it is equally competent outdoors, making it a solid contender for climbers looking to compete at higher levels.
In essence, the La Sportiva Ondra Comp lives up to its namesake. It combines flexibility and sensitivity for dynamic movements on volumes with sufficient edge stiffness for precision on tiny footholds. While wearing the shoe, climbers will appreciate its impressive grip while smearing on well-used limestone and its adaptability for various climbing techniques, including “smedging” on small nubbins. "The Ondra Comp is really something special for both competition and outdoor climbing at challenging grades," said one enthusiastic tester.
La Sportiva Ondra Comp Specifications
Key features of the Ondra Comp include SenseGrip technology, a P3 rand, and an aggressive toe patch. The shoe is designed with a notably aggressive downturn and moderate asymmetry while utilizing 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip2 rubber combined with SenseGrip technology for superior performance. It fits best for climbers with wide forefeet and narrow heels.
Pros and Cons
Pros of the Ondra Comp include its suitability for steep outdoor routes, effective performance in “smedging,” and the wider toe box, which allows for foot relaxation on volumes. Additionally, it balances pliability and sensitivity with good edging capabilities. However, climbers might find that it can feel excessively warm during outdoor use.
Performance Features
The La Sportiva Ondra Comp stands out for its innovative construction. While its aggressive downturn completes the bouldering-oriented design, the shoe's true performance feature is somewhat hidden. A softer section of the outsole, referred to as SenseGrip, exists under the forefoot which enhances sensitivity without sacrificing the sturdiness needed for edging. "This shoe maximizes the balance between comfort and performance," stated one experienced climber.
The shoe incorporates a 1.1mm Lapsoflex midsole that bolsters stiffness along key areas of the foot while keeping the central region soft and responsive. The materials include lightweight microfiber, are slip-lasted and unlined, and the shoe features a single Velcro closure and an elastic upper for a secure fit. Additionally, Ondra’s signature markings can be found on the closure strap and heel tabs, adding a personal touch to the shoe's design.
Finally, the Ondra Comp aligns with sustainability efforts, featuring components like recycled heel tabs and elastic, ensuring that performance does not come at the expense of environmental consciousness. Priced at an MSRP of $219, the pair weighs in at just over one pound.
Fit and Comfort
The construction of the Ondra Comp promotes both comfort and performance. The shoe's fit allows for natural foot function, catered through its larger toe box that promotes spreading and relaxation when on softer climbing surfaces. "It's a fantastic balance and provides just the right amount of input for varying climbing situations,” said a tester who used the shoes extensively in bouldering.
In conclusion, the La Sportiva Ondra Comp is not just a shoe designed for elite climbers but one that blends high-performance features with thoughtful design elements, making it an excellent choice for both competitive and recreational climbers alike. As climbers prepare for the challenges ahead, this shoe could very well support them in achieving their next great ascent.