The climbing community has embraced the innovative Petzl NEOX belay device, which offers a significant improvement in assisted braking technology.
"Every assisted braking device can inadvertently lock the rope to varying degrees when quickly feeding out slack to a lead climber," said a climbing expert. Petzl's response to this challenge has led to the design of the NEOX, which has been well-received since its release last summer.
The NEOX addresses a common concern among belayers: how to quickly release slack without compromising safety. Traditional devices often require the belayer to perform complex techniques to manage the brake hand while feeding slack. "Petzl has almost universally loved GriGri; however, it’s got one of the most convoluted and awkward ways to do so," the expert noted.
In a bid to enhance functionality, Petzl has integrated a groundbreaking feature in the NEOX. This device has a spinning wheel within the cam, which substantially reduces the friction created during slack feeding, nearly eliminating the activation of the braking mechanism when assisting the lead climber.
"The NEOX ($150) has provided me with a new level of ease at outdoor sport crags and climbing gyms," stated a seasoned climber who extensively tested the device using ropes ranging from 9.8 mm down to 8.6 mm. While the NEOX shines in single-pitch lead climbing, it has its limitations. The climber also mentioned, “I decided against using it for multipitch climbs for reasons explained below.”
Overall, many climbers agree on the NEOX’s performance. "After having tested almost every assisted braking device ever manufactured, I wholeheartedly agree that the Petzl NEOX is the best ABD for single-pitch lead climbing," claimed the climber. It feeds slack quickly and ensures a reliable lock, presenting a softer catch thanks to its slight slip mechanism.
However, some drawbacks are associated with the device. It is considered heavy, which can be a critical factor for some climbers. This sentiment echoes a review from a product analysis saying, "It is too heavy and functionally limited for multipitch climbs."
Petzl NEOX Overview
Boasting an aluminum build, stainless steel components, and a weight of 235 g, the NEOX retains a sleek aesthetic similar to other devices in the GriGri series but is notably larger and heavier. The distinct measurements show a device that is approximately ¼-inch longer and ½-inch taller than its predecessors.
Despite its heft, the efficiency of the NEOX during use has impressed many. The device’s unique selling point — a spinning wheel that mitigates the friction almost entirely — allows for seamless operation. According to climbing gear reviews, "Petzl NEOX cracks the code for lead belaying." "It smoothly and controllably lowers the climber without the need for any tricky adjustments," explained a climbing instructor. This ease of use positions the NEOX as an excellent choice for beginner and seasoned climbers alike looking for a straightforward yet highly effective belay experience.
However, not all feedback has been positive regarding its adaptability. "While it performs admirably for single-pitch climbs, it does not operate well as a top-down or multipitch belay device," remarked one reviewer.
Conclusion
In summary, the Petzl NEOX has established itself as a leading option for climbers focused on single-pitch lead climbing. Its integration of a spinning wheel improves ease of use and safety, addressing many past frustrations associated with traditional assisted braking devices. The climbing community has taken notice of its capability with endorsements affirming its position as the go-to belay device for many climbers.