In a remarkable feat of endurance and skill, the Basque climbing duo, Iker and Eneko Pou, successfully completed the first ascent of a new route named 'Kuntur' on Nevado Jurau A, standing at 5,520 meters high in the scenic Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru. Over a grueling span of three days, the brothers tackled a variety of challenges while climbing the 1,575-meter route that features grades of 6c, 70°, and M5.
The climb, which lasted from June 6 to June 8, 2025, was named 'Kuntur', meaning 'Condor' in the Quechua language, as the majestic birds flew overhead during their ascent. "We topped out with the last light of day two, after a rough bivy on a tiny ledge at 5,000 m," said Iker Pou, conveying the difficulties they faced during their expedition. They navigated treacherous conditions, rappelling down the summit for two hours in darkness, exhausted but determined.
Eneko and Iker emphasized the physical rigor of their climb, stating, "It had been a 13-hour push that day, on top of 12 the day before and another 5 on the approach... On day three we woke up totally worked, but still had to figure out the descent route. It took us another 7 hours to get back to base camp." This reflects not only the strenuous effort required but also the critical planning that is essential in high-altitude climbing.
The duo also shared insights into the technical aspects of the climb, mentioning, "It’s mostly a big rock climb — think La Esfinge style — but longer, higher, and with the final pitches on snow and ice, which makes the climb even more complete." They noted the complexities of the route: "The crux pitches aren’t insanely hard, but they’re super heady — tough to protect, and in most cases, you really don’t want to fall... We didn’t leave any fixed gear, so it’s a proper serious climb. Plus, hauling bivy gear and food for three days made it a real grind — physically brutal and logistically complex."
The emotional backdrop to this climb was steeped in sadness. Prior to this ascent, the brothers were involved in a rescue mission for fellow climbers who went missing on Mount Artesonraju, a mission that ultimately ended in loss, as the bodies of the climbers were discovered weeks later. Reflecting on these experiences, Iker mentioned, "This was a big one. We were looking for something major — and we pulled it off. But the hardest part wasn’t the climb itself — it was overcoming the emotional toll. First, the tragic accident on Artesonraju, where we tried and failed to recover three fellow climbers — not until nearly 20 days later. Then, the news kept coming — one friend after another dying in the mountains around the world. Eight friends lost in less than three weeks… That kind of pain hangs heavy. We nearly didn’t go through with this. For days we felt drained, unmotivated, unable to face such a demanding climb."
Despite the emotional hardships they faced, the brothers found beauty in the monumental experience. "Besides the effort, the difficulty, the altitude, the highs and lows of opening a new line, what truly marked us was this raw and overwhelming display of nature," Eneko shared. "After seven seasons in the Blanca, we’d never experienced anything like this. Sharing the wall with condors — something so rare and powerful — was just incredible."
Their journey highlights not just the physical challenges of high-altitude climbing but the psychological resilience required to navigate the emotional landscapes often encountered in the mountains. As climbers continue to push boundaries and face inherent dangers in their pursuits, stories like those of Iker and Eneko Pou serve as reminders of the deep connection between nature, camaraderie, and the emotional weight of loss in the climbing community. This ascent on Nevado Jurau A adds a significant chapter to their climbing legacy, as they continue to inspire others with their tenacity and passion for the mountains.