In the ever-evolving world of climbing gear, the Scarpa Drago ranks as one of the most sensitive options available today. Retailing at $229, these climbing shoes have earned the respect of many climbers for their unique soft design, which significantly enhances performance on challenging routes. "The Scarpa Drago is one of the softest shoes we've ever climbed in," said Dom Rickicki, the review editor for this evaluation. That softness is evident through its incredible sensitivity, which allows climbers to feel every nuance of the rock surface.
The Drago excels particularly on overhung boulders, providing what some climbers describe as the best-in-class experience for those looking to push their limits. "No other shoe we tested could transmit the same tactile sensations from the rock's every bump and rugosity," said Rickicki, highlighting the shoe's defining characteristic. However, this sensitivity comes at a cost, as the shoe may not be ideal for those requiring solid edging on technical climbs.
Comfort Factor Comfort is critically important for climbing shoes, and the Drago aims to provide it with a soft upper that molds to the foot for a near-second-skin feel. "Having a comfortable upper is necessary to make up for how precise and asymmetric this shoe is," explained Rickicki. While the design is ideal for performance, the aggressive shape can feel constricting for climbers who are not accustomed to specialty footwear.
Some testers experienced minor issues with fit. "This mesh did bunch up and pinch the top of our foot when we cranked the power strap down," noted Rickicki. Despite these quirks, the general consensus is that the Drago is quite comfortable for a performance fit. For climbers with high-volume feet, Scarpa offers a lower-volume version called the Drago LV, accommodating various foot shapes.
Smearing Ability The shoe's capability for smearing is remarkable, making it a joy to use on steep, technical routes. "The Drago's precise fit and thin outsole give you the ultimate platform for feeling every ripple in the rock," said Rickicki, emphasizing the shoe's performance on short but challenging climbs. The 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip2 rubber outsole plays a crucial role by providing optimal friction on small holds.
In the gym setting, the Drago is equally impressive. "We enjoyed climbing smeary granite boulders in the Drago but lamented having to climb even moderate slab routes in it," admitted the review team, pointing to the shoe's strengths and weaknesses. While perfect for short, steep climbs, the lack of support may lead to fatigue on longer routes, making it important for climbers to assess their climbing style before committing to this shoe.
