Between August 4 and 9, 2025, an impressive accomplishment took place on Yerupajá, towering at 6,634 meters—the highest peak in Peru's Huayhuash range. Spanish climbers Bru Busom, Rubén Sanmartin, and Marc Toralles successfully completed the first full traverse of this formidable mountain. The team marked their journey by establishing a new route on the east face dubbed 'L’essència del compromís,' which translates to 'The Essence of Commitment.'
"Reaching this summit meant a lot to us; it was a testament to not only our skills but also our commitment to the true alpine spirit," said Bru Busom, reflecting on the challenging journey.
After conquering the daunting east face, the climbers continued onto the perilous east ridge, characterized by precarious snow mushrooms and intricate terrain. Their journey up this ridge culminated at the mountain’s main summit, a feat that had no prior documented ascents through this route.
Upon completing their time on the summit, the trio descended via the south ridge, ultimately reaching the southern summit of Yerupajá. This maneuver finalized their ambitious endeavor as they became the first to accurately traverse the mountain by ascending from the east and descending via the south.
The team’s climb was no small achievement; they graded the route at 6c+, M6+, 95°, which spans approximately 3,000 meters. Remarkably, their ascent was executed in a pure alpine style, emphasizing a traditional ethos of climbing: no fixed ropes, high-altitude camps, or external support were utilized throughout their journey.
"This was definitely the most committing climb of our careers. Once we made our way onto the ridge, it seemed like retreat was nearly impossible," stated Rubén Sanmartin, highlighting the significant risks involved. He continued, "Our only option to safely descend was to reach the summit; failure was not on the table."
Historically, Yerupajá has proven to be an elusive peak. The mountain's first ascent occurred in 1950, led by American climbers David Harrah and James Maxwell via the west face. Since then, the summit has witnessed few ascents, primarily due to its technical challenges and the commitment it demands from climbers.
In 1969, climbing legends Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner made a notable attempt on the east face but had to turn back just 20 meters shy of the summit due to treacherous conditions. The most recent success prior to this traverse was in 2003 when Slovenian climbers Matevz Kramer, Matej Mejovsek, and Tadej Zorman established the route known as Limitless Madness on the northeast face.
Reflecting on the climb, Marc Toralles remarked, "Every ascent comes with its own set of challenges, but this one tested our limits unlike any before it. We came prepared to tackle the unknown, and that made all the difference."
The trio’s accomplishment not only honors the climbing heritage of Yerupajá but serves as a beacon for future climbers. The traverse emphasizes the spirit of adventure and the commitment required to conquer such peaks.
As the climbing community absorbs this significant achievement, it may inspire another generation of mountaineers to tackle the challenges presented by this iconic mountain. The successful traverse not only marks a milestone in the climbers' careers but also elevates the profile of alpine climbing in regions such as Huayhuash, where adventure and risk intertwine in an increasingly popular pursuit.