Acclaimed climbers Tommy Caldwell from the United States and Belgium's Siebe Vanhee have accomplished what many deemed nearly impossible: scaling the South African Route on Central Torres del Paine in Chile's Patagonia region in just 24 hours. This remarkable feat comes after two previous attempts, highlighting their resilience and determination.
The duo dubbed their challenge 'SAIAD'—South African In A Day. They began their ascent at 3:20 a.m. and reached the summit on the same hour the next day, effectively completing the climb in a single, grueling day. Notably, their journey even included a break of one hour and 45 minutes to brew coffee near the summit, showcasing their unique approach to the grueling endeavor.
Climbing in an audacious style, Caldwell and Vanhee opted for a method devoid of portaledges or fixed ropes. As reported by one of their sponsors, Edelrid, “They climbed every pitch free while battling unpredictable weather, 5.12c cruxes, a demanding 60‑meter off-width, and an exposed alpine finish in the dark.” Shortly after their arrival at the summit, a violent storm hit, complicating their descent into a fierce struggle against snow, wind, and almost zero visibility.
While the exact date of their ascent remains undisclosed, the climbers recently shifted their base from Puerto Natales, Chile, to El Chaltén, Argentina. This transition led to speculation that they might have abandoned their Chilean goal for the season after two unsuccessful attempts in previous weeks. During their second attempt, they progressed significantly, reaching the 21st pitch, but retreated in the face of an emerging storm.
The South African Route, a legendary ascent first conquered by a team in 1973, spans 1,200 meters and consists of 30 pitches. Their one-day effort is a stark contrast to the original team's 13-day expedition, reflecting an evolution in climbing techniques and strategies. Caldwell and Vanhee's ascent also marks them as the third team to complete a free climb of this renowned route, known for its dihedral system running up the East face of Central Peak.
Caldwell elaborated on the complexities of this climb, noting, “Strategically, this climb was perhaps more complex than others I’ve done in Patagonia.” This sentiment emphasizes the high level of planning required to navigate the unpredictable conditions endemic to the region.
This achievement is significant in Vanhee's climbing career as well, marking his second major accomplishment on Torres del Paine. In 2024, he successfully teamed up with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and Nico Favresse to accomplish the first free climb of the challenging route known as Riders on the Storm, also located on Central Torres del Paine.
The triumph of Caldwell and Vanhee not only showcases their climbing prowess but also reflects a deep passion and commitment to the sport. Their successful climb stands as an inspiration for aspiring climbers, reinforcing the belief that dedicated persistence against nature can yield extraordinary results.