Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell recently accomplished a significant feat in the world of mountaineering by successfully summiting Nanga Parbat via a new route. Standing at 8,126 meters, Nanga Parbat—known as the ninth-highest peak on Earth—was climbed under challenging conditions, without any fixed ropes or supplemental oxygen, a notable achievement that emphasizes the duo's expertise and determination.
In March 2025, Urubko announced a new project to explore the Diamir flank of Nanga Parbat alongside his wife, Maria Cardell. This ambitious endeavor culminated in success on July 10, 2025, when the pair reached the summit. They named their newly opened route “Niezabudka,” which translates to forget-me-not in Russian, inspired by the flowers that bloom near their base camp. “Maria and I are happy,” said Urubko, reflecting on their successful climb at 11:30 a.m. local time on that day.
Urubko, a celebrated mountaineer with an impressive record, has achieved the summit of an astounding 28 eight-thousanders. Notably, he is the 15th climber to complete all 14 of these peaks and is recognized as the eighth person to do so without the aid of supplemental oxygen. His experience also includes two first winter ascents for Makalu and Gasherbrum III, which showcases his exceptional skills in harsh conditions.
Maria Cardell, who is also climbing at an elite level, experienced her fourth eight-thousander with this expedition. A ski rescuer and a key member of the Spanish elite mountaineering team, she has proven to be an essential partner to Urubko during their ascent.
Upon describing their climb, Urubko noted, “It will be an authentic new route, not a variant presented as a standalone route,” emphasizing the novelty and significance of their path up the mountain. Their successful attempt followed a period of acclimatization in the Skardu region, leading them directly to the west flank of Nanga Parbat, where they navigated over previously uncharted terrain.
The climb was executed in a pure alpine style, characterized by light and fast techniques. Urubko and Cardell managed to complete their ascent in just five days, reinforcing their capabilities as a team. The climb concluded with Urubko describing their partnership during the summit as a “perfect moment” stemming from their effective coordination and mutual understanding.
Their ascent of Nanga Parbat has not only contributed to their personal achievements but has also added a new route to the growing catalog of climbs on this challenging mountain. Niezabudka stands as a testament to their dedication and the team's perseverance in the face of mountain climbing’s inherent risks.
As mountaineering enthusiasts and experts continue to follow the legacies of climbers like Urubko and Cardell, their successful expedition invigorates the community and inspires future adventures in high-altitude climbing. Nanga Parbat remains a coveted peak for climbers, and the opening of new routes, particularly via methods that highlight skill and teamwork, is a continual motivation for mountaineers worldwide.