In a remarkable feat of mountaineering, Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean from France have successfully summited Jannu East (7,468 meters), marking the first ascent of the peak after a challenging alpine-style climb up its 2,300-meter north face. This significant achievement took place in October 2025, although the exact date of the summit remains unconfirmed.
"This is the greatest achievement of my mountaineering career," said Vedrines, reflecting on the life-changing experience he shared with Jean.
News of their summit was shared by their home team, accompanied by stunning imagery from the climb. However, the specifics regarding the summit date are still awaited. The duo had previously faced challenges attempting the formidable north face last year alongside fellow climber Leo Billon.
The Jannu mountain range is situated in eastern Nepal, close to the iconic Kangchenjunga. This time around, Vedrines and Jean approached their ascent with meticulous preparation, including acclimatization and the strategic planning of their climb. They also managed to achieve their first ascent of another mountain, Anidesh Chuli (6,808 meters), also known as The White Wave, just weeks before tackling Jannu. This advance preparation proved critical as they waited patiently for the right climbing conditions.
Upon tackling the imposing north face of Jannu, the climbers navigated vertical ice pitches and reached the snowy summit ridge, where they followed the corniced knife-edge to finally stand atop the East summit. The arduous climb, which they rated as extremely difficult (ED-), involved four grueling days on the wall, challenging their physical limits and mental fortitude.
Jean encapsulated the experience succinctly: "Concentration, commitment, self-improvement, and emotion… all the ingredients of high-altitude Himalayanism.” The bond between the climbers played a crucial role in their success. "Nicolas and I formed a close-knit team, pushed to the limits of ourselves, each pulling the other upward, making this ascent one of the most beautiful chapters of our lives," added Vedrines.
As the climbers have returned safely to Base Camp, they are expected to provide a comprehensive report detailing their exact route—the topo of which has already been released under the name 'Le sommet des Pieux'—along with more images and insights from their difficult climb.
The journey of Vedrines and Jean highlights the dedication and spirit of adventure that characterize high-altitude climbers. Their successful ascent not only adds to their personal achievements but expands the history of Himalayan climbing, paving the way for future adventurers aiming to conquer Jannu East.
As the climbing community awaits further details from the intrepid climbers, Jannu East stands as a testament to the resilience and determination of mountaineers pushing the boundaries of exploration in some of the world’s most challenging environments.